le blog soulignis

To take on the wave the surfing the energy of the ocean. To fill the walls of water with your best performance. To pitch yourself on a needle point of a surfboard down the biggest waves of the world. This is now the reality of B.W.S. Big Wave surfers and their craftmanship. More people have been to the moon than have experienced the thrill of the big drop. Take yourself to surfing, no boundaries, no comfort zone for the time you are out there amongst the devils playground Testing your skill you preparedness. A mistake and your his to pay for the play. Safeness is in the pictures the surfing posters that adorn the walls of you sancturary. All comfort here even in the storm. The winter is squashed by the heater the summer is cooled by the cooler. No escape in the real elements, the extremities if the game. If you are game.

Picture the gang head. treat 911 as a warrant. What happens when the man is back in action. the read sheet is out on the cops desk. Well 911 works both ways. It's tough getting up in this world. Well someone has to figure out how to keep the peace . Well you let me know what we can do abut it. Wet backs make a living out of a roach boast. The coppers show no professional courtesy, if we don't tell up we all go to jail with our hands on our heads right now.

How do the beasties put that in a song. It sounds like a nypd blues script. Better to ride the foam and feel life than rap the crap.

Well i got the flat spell blues bad. It's so flat out there on the ocean for the past two months i've taken to cooking and getting fat. Flat and everyone's getting fat. Today the water was atoasty 24 degrees but the waves were nothing. At the height of the onshore breeze the waves got to 2feet on the sets and we were out there fighting the groms and lids for a piece of the action. You gotta love it.